Pricing guide

How to value a Pokémon card

Five practical steps to work out what a Pokémon card is actually worth — not what a hopeful seller is asking.

Step 1 — Identify the exact printing

A Charizard is not a Charizard. The same character has been reprinted hundreds of times across sets, promos and special art treatments. The collector number (e.g. 4/102) and the set symbol pin down the exact printing, and the difference in value between two near-identical-looking printings can be 100× or more.

Step 2 — Check the rarity tier

Symbol = base rarity. Art style = the tier above. A standard holo rare and a full-art alt of the same Pokémon from the same set can be a 20× price difference. Our rarity guide walks through every modern variant.

Step 3 — Grade the condition honestly

Inspect under bright, angled light. Check all four corners, both edges, the surface and the centering. Be ruthless — every flaw you ignore is money you'll lose to a returns request. Full condition guide.

Step 4 — Compare sold prices, not listings

Pull the last three to five sold prices from a major marketplace for the same printing in the same condition. Throw out the highest and lowest as outliers and take the median. That's your real number.

CardVaulty's live price tracker aggregates Cardmarket and TCGPlayer trend prices in GBP, which already weight sold data over hopeful listings.

Step 5 — Apply a realistic seller discount

If you're selling, expect to net roughly 70–85% of trend price after fees and shipping. If you're buying, anything below trend price for the right condition is a fair deal. Above trend price needs a story — limited supply, hot character, freshly graded slab.

FAQ

Is the 'sold' price more reliable than the listing price?
Always. Listings are aspirational — sold prices are what the market actually paid in the last 30–90 days. Use sold data whenever possible.
How much does condition change the value?
Dramatically. A Near Mint card is the baseline; Lightly Played typically sells for 70–85%, Moderately Played 50–70%, and Heavily Played 25–45% of NM value.
Should I grade before selling?
Only if the raw card is worth at least 4× the grading fee and you genuinely believe it will grade a 9 or 10. Otherwise sleeve it and sell raw.

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